Thai Binh Ngoi lang an thit lon song

Chủ nhật, 08 Tháng năm 2011, 06:10 GMT+7
Toi da co dip hiem co, duoc tan mat tu dau den duoi, tu canh bac do te cam dao choc tiet lon, den canh moi thit song ra bam, cho den khi mon thit song len mam co va dung toc gay voi canh hang tram nguoi, du ca gia tre, lon be, nam thanh, nu tu luon tay gap thit song cho vao mieng, nhai mot cach ngon lanh.

Do la lang Vi Thuy, thuoc xa Thai Duong (Thai Thuy, Thai Binh), nam cach bien Dong khong xa lam. Toi lai ve dung vao ngay dep, co 2 dam cuoi lien. O cai lang nay, dam cuoi, dam hoi, dam ma, deu khong the thieu duoc mon thit lon song. Qua la co hoi ngan vang, duoc chung kien day du tu giai doan che bien, den canh nguoi dan thi nhau xoi mon an kinh di.

Thai Binh: Ngoi lang an thit lon song
O lang Vi Thuy, dam cuoi khong the thieu cac mon thit lon song.

Co the noi, hiem co ngoi lang nao dep nhu lang Vi Thuy. Lang nam lot giua hai con song. Con song o cuoi lang do nang phu sa, la con song cap nuoc cho dong ruong, con con song o dau lang lai la song thoat nuoc ra bien. Con song nay rong menh mang, nuoc xanh ngan ngat. Duong lang Vi Thuy thang tap, cay coi ben duong xanh ron, qua la thi vi.

Tien ve cong tac, lai muon tim hieu mon thit lon song, nen toi duoc cac “nghe nhan” nau an cua lang Vi Thuy moi chung kien va xoi mon an dac san cua lang, khong giong bat ky dau o dat nuoc nay. Cac “nghe nhan” che bien mon thit song con co y “nho va” toi quay phim, chup anh, gioi thieu cho ca nuoc biet den mon dac san thit lon song co mot khong hai cua lang.

Thai Binh: Ngoi lang an thit lon song
Mon thit song duoc dan bang song dao.

Vay la, toi da co dip hiem co, duoc tan mat tu dau den duoi, tu canh bac do te cam dao choc tiet lon, den canh moi thit song ra bam, cho den khi mon thit song len mam co va dung toc gay voi canh hang tram nguoi, du ca gia tre, lon be, nam thanh, nu tu luon tay gap thit song cho vao mieng, nhai mot cach ngon lanh.

Hom ay, lang Vi Thuy co 2 dam cuoi, toi duoc moi tham du dam cuoi cua anh chang Dinh Van Hoang, lay vo nguoi lang canh.
Thai Binh: Ngoi lang an thit lon song
Day la mon chan lon song, co ten tap de.

Lang Vi Thuy co nhieu dau bep rat tai tinh. Ho co tuoi tren duoi 60. Mot so tre hon de lam nhung viec nang. Trong nhom dau bep do, co mot nguoi chi dao chung, dieu hanh nhom nguoi tay dao, tay keo bam chat truc tiep. Dan ong lam cong viec che bien, dan ba lam viec bep nuc, chuan bi bat dia.

Nhom dau bep nay la nhung nguoi nau an gioi nhat lang, duoc lap ra de phuc vu nhung su kien lon trong lang nhu le hoi, cuoi xin, ma chay, lien hoan… Ho lam viec khong luong, nhung rat nhiet tinh, san sang thuc khuya, day som, phuc vu ca ngan nguoi trong mot bua tiec.

Voi moi dam cuoi, ho thuong phai che bien mon an hai lan: gom bua toi truoc ngay cuoi va bua trua cua ngay cuoi. Ngoai ga, meo (dam cuoi o day luon co mon thit meo), hoac trau, bo, thi nhat thiet phai co 2 con lon (qua la ton kem).
Thai Binh: Ngoi lang an thit lon song
Thai Binh: Ngoi lang an thit lon song
Bua toi truoc ngay cuoi khong the thieu 3 mon thit song: tiet canh, thit song, tap de.

Ngay tu trua hom truoc ngay cuoi, mot chu lon da bi choc tiet. Bac do te Ha Van Toan, nguoi chuyen lam nhiem vu mo lon, cam tai chu lon chung 60kg keo xenh xech ra goc san. Chau nuoc soi de nguoi pha mam, muoi duoc be den. Co chu lon duoc rua sach bang nuoc muoi va choc tiet.

Phan thit nac cua con lon duoc tong vao may xay nhuyen de lam gio, chuan bi cho mam co vao trua hom sau. Phan sun va mot so thu ngon cua con lon dem luoc, danh tiet canh. That cha co dam cuoi nao, ma lai xoi tiet canh do chot mau me nhu o ngoi lang nay.

4 chiec chan gio cua chu lon duoc khoet cao, cung voi 10 chan gio lon duoc thu gom tu cac lo mo o xom khac, de chuan bi cho mot mon chan lon song co ten “tap de”, de thuc khach danh chen vao buoi toi.
Thai Binh: Ngoi lang an thit lon song
Trong khi dan ong dan thit, thi dan ba boc toi.

Khong ai hieu cai ten mon tap de nay co y nghia nhu the nao, nhung theo cac dau bep trong lang, co le vi an no giong an thit de, nen goi nhu vay. Nhieu nguoi noi khac ve an mon thit song nay, cu nghi la dang xoi thit de tai!

Chan gio lon duoc lam sach, boc mong, cao long bang nuoc nong de rut het chan long. Rom nep sach duoc dot chay bung bung, tao than do ruc va chan gio lon duoc ho tren lua rom nong hung huc do.

Chan gio duoc nuong tren lua rom chung 1-2 phut, khi lop da ben ngoai chuyen sang mau vang. Nguoi ta dung dao nhon choc nhe vao da, thay lop da co mau trong nhu mien, the la xong cong doan nuong.
Thai Binh: Ngoi lang an thit lon song
Thit lon song duoc nhao tron voi mot so loai gia vi.
Thai Binh: Ngoi lang an thit lon song

Chan gio lon dot vang ruom duoc treo lung lang len canh cay, day phoi chung vai tieng de gio va khong khi lam kho.

Khoang 4 gio chieu, nhung chiec chan gio nay duoc cac dau bep dung dao sac ben loc lay thit va da. Nhin chiec chan gio thay rang, chi co lop da ben ngoai la chin tai, con lai, phan thit nac o dui lon van do lom. Phan mo va gan van trang on on. Tom lai, toan bo phan thit, mo, gan cua chan lon van song nguyen.

Phan thit nay duoc thai mong thanh mieng to. Sau khi thai thit chan gio lon day mot chau, thi tron gia vi vao. Gia vi chi co vung rang, khe chua, mi chinh, mam. Mot thanh nien khoe manh, co bap, lien tuc xuc ban tay vao chau thit song vua dao vua bop. Dao bop chung 20 phut, thi mon nay duoc chia ra dia.
Thai Binh: Ngoi lang an thit lon song
Ca tram nguoi thi nhau an ngon lanh cac mon lam tu thit lon song.

Buoi toi hom do, 30 mam nhau duoc sap ra. Sau khi moi mam danh bay bat tiet canh, thi moi nguoi bat dau thuong thuc mon tap de, che bien tu chan lon song. Nhung mieng thit do hon duoc goi vao la sung va ai cung chen ngon lanh. Toi cung lieu gap mieng thit song goi la sung va nhai. Qua thuc, sau khi nhai xong mieng thit song, cam giac so hai bien dau mat ca. Vi ngot cua mieng thit cu quan quyt o co hong, lai co huong vi cua mieng thit de tai chanh.

Qua quan sat cua toi, bua toi hom truoc cua dam cuoi, hai thu het dau tien la bat tiet canh lon va mon chan lon song, goi la tap de.

Du sao, mon tap de cung la mon ma thit da chin duoc 10%. Ngay hom sau, toi duoc tan mat qua trinh che bien va xoi mon thit lon song 100% o cai dam cuoi nay.
Thai Binh: Ngoi lang an thit lon song

5h sang, ong do te Ha Van Toan da chuan bi dao bau sac ngot. Ngay khi chu lon bi choc tiet, bung lon phanh ra, ong Toan da dung dao xeo toan bo phan thit nac ngon cua con lon: gom thit nac mong, thit than.

Dau bep Pham Van Mui duoc giao nhiem vu chi huy lam mon thit song nay. Moi thu dung de che bien mon nay deu phai sach se tuyet doi: dao, thot, chau, nia va tay moi nguoi deu duoc rua nuoc soi de nguoi pha muoi.

Nhung mieng thit nac ngon cua con lon tuyet doi khong duoc rua qua nuoc. Theo ho, chi can dinh nuoc la vao, mon nay se hong, vi an vao se bi Tao Thao duoi.

Nhung mieng thit lon song duoc thai thanh mieng mong chung 1cm, to ban bao nhieu khong quan trong. May nguoi dung song dao rua dan luon tay, khien nhung mieng thit do nat ra thanh bot, nhung van ket dinh voi nhau. Thit nac dan nat lap day may chau lien.
Thai Binh: Ngoi lang an thit lon song

Nhung mieng bi lon da luoc tai duoc thai mong nhu nhung soi banh da.

Canh nhom nguoi dan thit lon, la nhom phu nu luon tay boc toi. Toi boc day ca ro. Cac loai rau thom nhu rau mui, hung, la mo cung duoc rua sach, ngam nuoc muoi loang. Rieng la dinh lang va la sung thi khong duoc rua.

Toi duoc gia nho, dap o muc vua phai. Toi, mam, mi chinh, bi lon thai soi duoc do vao nhung chau thit song roi bop rat manh tay, bop den khi nao nhuyen thi thoi.

O mot goc san khac, phu nu rang gao no lep bep, roi xay gao rang thanh bot that min. Thu bot thom nuc nay tiep tuc duoc rai vao chau thit song va bop deu.

Dau bep tre Dao Van Sang bop thit song tron gia vi thanh tung qua to co qua buoi, roi bay len nhung chiec dia lot la sung. Vay la mon thit song da hoan thanh, duoc dat trang trong vao giua mam co. Xung quanh mam la thit ga, gio, thit meo va cac mon khac.

Toi da thuc su hai khi thay may tram con nguoi, khong ke gai trai, lon be, lien tuc gap mon thit song nay cham mam cot an. Cung nhu mon tiet canh va tap de toi hom truoc, mon thit song nay het dau tien. Nhung mam an khong het, lap tuc duoc chuyen sang nhung mam dan ong, thanh nien de lam moi nhau.

Toi cung lieu gap mot mieng goi vao la sung, cham mam cot va bo vao mieng. Cung cam giac nhu xoi mon tap de dem truoc, luc dau la so hai, nhung roi cam giac kinh so tan bien dau mat. Vi ngot cua thit khien toi khong cuong duoc viec gap them het mieng nay den mieng khac.

Con tiep…

Theo Pham Song Diem (GDVN)
Viet Bao
 
Xem Bản Tiếng Việt Có Dấu: Thái Bình: Ngôi làng ăn thịt lợn sống
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